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By Sarah Bahl
   
The Heian Period of Japan from 794 to 1185 AD, was one of fashion breakthrough as it was a time of cultural blossoming in Japan. The nation was at peace and the time period is named of the capital Heian, now the city of Kyoto. The Heian Period is considered the height of classical culture in Japan. It is also during this time, that women writers in Japan prospered. A world renowned tale, also known as Japan’s first novel is: The Tale of Genji by Murasaki Shikibu, a noblewomen of the court. The Tale of Genji reveals the status of women in court affairs at the time and that of men. It also makes clear the balance of gender relations. Noble women, protected by the court were to study the fine arts and this time period produced some of the world’s best female writers. Though women were not encouraged to participate directly in governance. For the most part, the men governed and lead in affairs while women, though allowed solid educations, were not enabled to be of political power.
    The Tale of Genji is sardonic and at times near scathing toward the shallowness of human nature. Yet, it is incredibly elegantly written and reveals much about court life at the time. Genji is son of the emperor by a woman of the court known to be the emperor’s favorite.  She was beautiful and bullied by the other women as, because she was favored, she lessened the chances of the other children’s position in court. In certain ways, Genji was born the male version of his mother, and was spoiled for his beauty and charm as much as she was punished for hers. His mother died, according to the novel, because of the evils the people of the court were always placing upon her. Genji grew to have many affairs and a few children. The novel ends perfectly embodying the persona of Genji.
    The tale also reveals much about fashion and the importance of dress in communicating hierarchy. Women of the court wore up to twelve inner and outer layers of cloth. Their faces were painted white, their lips pouty, and natural eyebrows were singed off. The natural eyebrows were replaced by gray ones drawn on and arched near the hairline. Also, teeth were blackened, as the effect was considered more lovely than yellowed teeth upon a whitened face. The clothing was meant to be reflective of the seasons, as well. The woman were also to have full faces, signifying wealth, though figures were hidden by the layers of cloth. The woman's hair was  also worn extremely long.
The Heian Period, lead to a sharply contrasting Kamakura period, where militaristic rule settled over the previous widespread court rule based on code. The fashion sensibilities changed as did the pathos of the times leading to much more simplistic kimono type wear with lessened adornment.

Image collected online 11/29/2010 from http://people.cohums.ohio-state.edu.
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